Quicktech For Windows Iso Creator

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Quicktech For Windows Iso Creator

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Also shouldn't this be a board instead of a thread. Call it EBKC Troubleshooting or something edit: and my question: Is there a desktop FTP widget (or even a folder on my desktop) that will automagically upload files I drag and drop into it to a prespecified folder on my ftp server? Even better is there something like the above that provides immediate feedback in the form of a url for the most recently dropped file (for example just copying and pasting to a forum)?

It's annoying to fire up filezilla, connecting to my site, navigating to the img folder and dropping an image in. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Viin on August 20, 2008, 11:30:26 AM. Sweet, before I hand over my FTP login information to randominternetprogram01 anyone have a recommendation that they have used?

I hope anything sensitive on an FTP server is behind your firewall anyways.:awesome_for_real: You mean my $15 a month web server that I have no real control over? Not quite sure how much good the firewall would be against someone having your username and password and using that info to illegitimately create legitimate traffic.

I suppose IP restriction on FTP requests but that isn't a very good solution for roaming and/or masked IP's. There isn't anything critical on that server but it might be slightly embarrassing if it was hacked and loaded with malicious content. Fire FTP looks okay but i'm not really looking to replace Filezilla, ftpdropper (looks about like what I wanted. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Viin on August 20, 2008, 05:41:42 PM. Yah there's not much you can do about that.

You get what you pay for. FTP is notorious for being easily hacked/cracked, even without the help of suspect FTP programs. Most organizations (such as the one I work for) do not allow FTP outside of the internal network, blocking all external traffic on the common FTP ports. Heck, I think everything is blocked except for the VPN connection. Here's my question: What's a good app to use to configure dual monitors in Windows Vista?

Such as having your taskbar in both windows? Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: schild on August 20, 2008, 05:42:32 PM.

I'm almost embarassed to ask something that probably seems so obvious to most of you, but. I have Comcast cable and an HD DVR in my family room. In my office I have, obviously, my PC and other equipment (consoles, projector, etc.).

I am looking for this particular piece of advice: What is the best/cheapest/easiest way for me to get full blown HD cable via my PC? I know I could rent a new tuner from Comcast, but I'm thinking that it probably isn't cost effective.

Will any old HD DVR or HD Tuner card hooked up to cable ultimately net the same effect (and same channels)? Note that I do not want to sign up for any new subscriptions to make this happen. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Mrbloodworth on September 16, 2008, 09:51:55 AM. I'm looking at buying a wireless keyboard and mouse to use with HTPC. Ideally I'd like both to have cradles for recharging and a keyboard without the numeric key pad. Small and dainty would be nice but I ain't paying double to get it.

Budget (since Trippy always wants to know) would be ~$US100 but 20 bucks over wouldn't kill me. Just don't get the Logitech bluetooth dealios. I have one, and truly regret it. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Trippy on September 16, 2008, 10:38:29 AM. I'm almost embarassed to ask something that probably seems so obvious to most of you, but. I have Comcast cable and an HD DVR in my family room. In my office I have, obviously, my PC and other equipment (consoles, projector, etc.).

I am looking for this particular piece of advice: What is the best/cheapest/easiest way for me to get full blown HD cable via my PC? I know I could rent a new tuner from Comcast, but I'm thinking that it probably isn't cost effective. Will any old HD DVR or HD Tuner card hooked up to cable ultimately net the same effect (and same channels)? Note that I do not want to sign up for any new subscriptions to make this happen. Best/cheapest/easiest are all mutually exclusive so you need to pick one. And actually as far as I've been able to figure out so far there is no 'easiest' either.

The simplistic answer is that there are number of solutions out there that will allow you to capture QAM cable (i.e. Unencrypted digital cable) including HD QAM channels, assuming they are available in your area. In theory with a QAM capture device and the appropriate software you can capture said channels.

However as I've been discovering in practice it's anything but straightforward. If you want to capture encrypted HD programming (like, say, HBO) that's a whole other area that I haven't even bothered to look into yet but would presumably require being able to capture component output assuming your cable box can even output that. If you have a couple hundred bucks to spend you could try messing around with something like this: There are cheaper QAM HDTV capture devices out there but it's less likely one of the popular 3rd party PVR software programs will support the hardware, unlike the Hauppauge stuff which is really well supported. Expect a lot of pain and suffering, though, if you attempt to do this.

I'm still suffering through getting my Comcast Digital Cable setup to work acceptably and I may never actually get to that point. Which is unfortunate since my previous ATSC (over the air) HDTV setup worked really well for the channels I was able to receive. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Cyrrex on September 16, 2008, 10:50:23 AM. Best/cheapest/easiest are all mutually exclusive so you need to pick one. I knew that, was just being deliberately thick. Based on what you're saying, and upon some of the reviews I've read, I may just re-consider renting another box from comcast and hooking it up directly to my projector. I'd frankly be pretty pissed if I had to spend 150 bucks to find out it didn't work for shit.

And to be fair, the HD box from comcast is decent enough.it's more the long term cost that gives me pause. I don't know if this changes anything, but I don't do premium channels, so I assume all the stuff I am getting is unencrypted. Edit: come to think of it, that is probably a poor assumption, since it isn't simple basic cable that I have. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Trippy on September 16, 2008, 10:56:24 AM. I don't know if this changes anything, but I don't do premium channels, so I assume all the stuff I am getting is unencrypted. The only digital channels the law requires the cable company to send unencrypted are the local stations (local affliates of FOX, NBC, CBS, PBS, etc.).

Where I am I get those (in both SD and HD) and a ton of other crap SD digital channels like the shopping channels in QAM. I don't get any of the 'Starter Package' HD channels in QAM, at least as far as I've been able to determine so far. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Salamok on September 16, 2008, 11:00:39 AM. I'm looking at buying a wireless keyboard and mouse to use with HTPC. Ideally I'd like both to have cradles for recharging and a keyboard without the numeric key pad.

Small and dainty would be nice but I ain't paying double to get it. Budget (since Trippy always wants to know) would be ~$US100 but 20 bucks over wouldn't kill me. Just don't get the Logitech bluetooth dealios. I have one, and truly regret it. I have had some dicey luck with wireless kb/mouse combos (all logitech). In my experience if you want to go more than 4 or so feet without problems you have to go blue tooth.

For my conference room at work I bought a logitech cordless desktop (mx1000 laser mouse+keyboard) this wasn't bluetooth and the lack of range made it suck. So I brought it home and while the keyboard still sucked (lag) the mouse rocked. For work I then purchased the logitech bluetooth bundle, the mouse isn't as good as the mx1000 and there is still some keyboard lage but the range is pretty impressive, unfortunately it still has the smallest bit of lag. Now the dell bluetooth kb/mouse bundle (pretty much include it for everyone who asks me to order them a laptop) are pretty snappy (no lag) but the mouse feels a little light and they take batteries instead of having a built in charger. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Cyrrex on September 16, 2008, 11:03:47 AM. I don't know if this changes anything, but I don't do premium channels, so I assume all the stuff I am getting is unencrypted.

The only digital channels the law requires the cable company to send unencrypted are the local stations (local affliates of FOX, NBC, CBS, PBS, etc.). Where I am I get those (in both SD and HD) and a ton of other crap SD digital channels like the shopping channels in QAM. I don't get any of the 'Starter Package' HD channels in QAM, at least as far as I've been able to determine so far. Thanks Trippy, that clears it up for me quite well. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Baldrake on September 16, 2008, 01:34:54 PM. I'm looking at buying a wireless keyboard and mouse to use with HTPC.

Ideally I'd like both to have cradles for recharging and a keyboard without the numeric key pad. Small and dainty would be nice but I ain't paying double to get it. Budget (since Trippy always wants to know) would be ~$US100 but 20 bucks over wouldn't kill me. Just don't get the Logitech bluetooth dealios. I have one, and truly regret it.

I have had some dicey luck with wireless kb/mouse combos (all logitech). In my experience if you want to go more than 4 or so feet without problems you have to go blue tooth. For my conference room at work I bought a logitech cordless desktop (mx1000 laser mouse+keyboard) this wasn't bluetooth and the lack of range made it suck. So I brought it home and while the keyboard still sucked (lag) the mouse rocked.

For work I then purchased the logitech bluetooth bundle, the mouse isn't as good as the mx1000 and there is still some keyboard lage but the range is pretty impressive, unfortunately it still has the smallest bit of lag. Now the dell bluetooth kb/mouse bundle (pretty much include it for everyone who asks me to order them a laptop) are pretty snappy (no lag) but the mouse feels a little light and they take batteries instead of having a built in charger. Guess I'd better elaborate. I also have the mx1000. My problems are • Periodically, the keyboard disconnects, reconnects 5 seconds or so later. That behaviour is totally incompatible with gaming.

• Occasional monster keyboard lag • Occasionally, on boot up, mouse and keyboard aren't recognized at all, need to reboot • Finicky connector between mouse and charger • Ferocious battery use on keyboard. I won't be buying another of these.

Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Yegolev on September 16, 2008, 01:41:56 PM. Pretty much same experience i had with it, i gave the wireless keybard to my 2 year old and went out and bought a g15 (should have bought a g11). The mouse though is hands down the best mouse i have owned and has held up well to 3 years of abuse (1 of it's lil glide pad/feet wore off though).

Too bad they replaced the mx1000 mouse with that newfangled piece of crap that is 2x the size and seems to weigh half as much. Maybe it's just me but my brain and hand don't seem to be evolving fast enough to keep up with the logitech pace for adding new scrollies and buttons. I seem to recall a similar feeling when they replaced my easy to click middle button with a hard to click wheelie a decade ago so I guess I'll eventually evolve enough to make a thumb wheel indispensable Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: NiX on September 16, 2008, 05:20:43 PM. My sub woofer has burned out or something. I am running XP (32) Creative sound card. I am a deaf man but I miss my lump ba dump ( deaf people like bass). Please to be recommending some speakers with big sub woofers.

Current system was surround sound and i think that a satellite with subwoffer is preferred. Not sure how big you need to go, but I have this Klipsch 2.1 setup that seems to be pretty good bang for the buck (can be had for under 150). In a relatively small room, I get a pretty impressive bass response. It is only a stereo set, mind you. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Yegolev on September 17, 2008, 08:19:18 AM.

No idea, to be honest, but I'd assume it has to do with us being connected to the school network when it finds XPRINT. Are you saying that this works when you are on the school network but does not work when you are not? I'd have you check the name to see how you are reaching it when it is working. Possibly you are not resolving the name anymore and if you can determine the IP it might help. After that, though, you need to see if you can actually hit the IP. I'm not really a network guy, or a Windows guy, so I'm going to be of limited help. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Hawkbit on September 17, 2008, 09:00:47 AM.

It's more that Dell has totally destroyed their once stellar support reputation by outsourcing it to India. They've fallen to the level of other companies like HP. It may depend on the level of support you're talking about. I have to replace failed Dell parts on a nearly weekly basis here at work, and their Dell Chat system works like a charm. It doesn't matter if the dude is Indian on the other end of the line, as long as I can explain why the component is truely dead and the machine is still under warranty, I get a replacement within 14-20 hours of the conversation. Now, I've never had to make any tech support call where I had to actually troubleshoot an item, or had to have a replacement sent for a 'home' purchase I've made, so I can't speak to that, but at a business/government level, they are bar none the best I've ever worked with.

Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Mrbloodworth on September 18, 2008, 10:18:51 AM. Dual core Or core 2 duo? Price seems to vary a good deal.but whats the difference? Give some examples. Ok, what i am doing is ditching the idea of upgrading the old DELL (RAMBUS!!!1!). Now, i need a processor for my girls machine, but i am confused as to what Core 2 duo, and Dual core's differences are. I will link some from new egg.

Dual core (Search refinement. Core 2 duo (search refinement.

Now, i realize Mhz are Mhz and some are just faster. Some of the dual core CPU's are not that far behind in Mhz, but the price difference is large. Now, what i need is a decent CPU for my girls machine, something that will allow her to play games like LOTRO and WAR.and what ever else, she doesn't ever have a want to play anything as intensive as oblivion ETC. So, is dual core a good CPU for the price? Or should i spend a little more for the Core 2 duo.

Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Viin on September 18, 2008, 10:23:38 AM. The Core 2 Duo's are still two cores, not 4. The only difference I see is that they aren't making many Dual Core's anymore, and the Core 2 Duo's have 2mb cache instead of the 1mb cache that Dual Core's have. Edit: some of the Core 2 Duo's are 45nm instead of 65nm, but those are the really pricey ones (200+). The ones down at the bottom of $100 (say, $120) are about the same as the Dual Core's but with twice the cache.

Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Mrbloodworth on September 18, 2008, 10:32:13 AM. More cache = more data processing at once, so if you are doing things with large files (ie: playing intensive games, editing videos, etc) then more is better. Personally, I would splurge and get at least one of the Core 2 Duos, if not one of the 45mn ones. For your gf the Dual Core is probably fine, as the real bottleneck is going to be the graphics card for LOTRO. A lot of the game stuff uses the video cards GPU instead of the CPU now days, so the CPU is becoming less important for video games. It's always best to get the best you can afford, so you aren't upgrading as often.

So I would start with what you want to spend then work backwards and see what you can afford. I start with the most important piece of hardware then move backwards: Video Card CPU Mobo Memory So if you are doing a total upgrade and you want to spend $1000 or less, see what you can get in the first slot that's 1 or 2 slots below 'The Best(tm)' then work it through and tweak as needed or you see deals. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Mrbloodworth on September 18, 2008, 10:53:42 AM. YEah, thanks for the advice, but i have already done that part lol, right now i am trying to get the overall price down.

As far as video card, i had already chosen This one. (( I currently use this on my new machine i bought about 2 months ago) I may just list the whole machine as a public wish list, and let you guys go over it to make sure i'm not buying stupid things. But, what i was thinking is, buy the dual core, and upgrade it later ( the slot allows for it) EDIT: I need to figure out how to make it public, lol. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Viin on September 18, 2008, 10:58:20 AM. Dual core Or core 2 duo? Price seems to vary a good deal.but whats the difference? Give some examples.

Ok, what i am doing is ditching the idea of upgrading the old DELL (RAMBUS!!!1!). Now, i need a processor for my girls machine, but i am confused as to what Core 2 duo, and Dual core's differences are. I will link some from new egg. Dual core (Search refinement. Core 2 duo (search refinement. Now, i realize Mhz are Mhz and some are just faster. Some of the dual core CPU's are not that far behind in Mhz, but the price difference is large.

Now, what i need is a decent CPU for my girls machine, something that will allow her to play games like LOTRO and WAR.and what ever else, she doesn't ever have a want to play anything as intensive as oblivion ETC. So, is dual core a good CPU for the price? Or should i spend a little more for the Core 2 duo. 'dual core' is a generic term meaning 2 CPU cores inside a single package.

'Intel Pentium Dual-Core' is an Intel brand name for their low-end Core 2 Duo CPUs. Why they went back to using the Pentium name even though it's really a Core CPU I have no idea. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Salamok on September 19, 2008, 08:18:10 AM.

Well it's hard to say since the usual sites typically don't bother benchmarking such low end CPUs, at least not in a way that's useful for comparison to other more expensive CPUs. Tom's probably has the most extensive CPU charts here: but they don't benchmark the E2200 or the E4500 (i.e. The E2200 with 2 MB of cache). On the TH charts probably the closest equivalent to the E2200 is the Intel Core 2 Duo E6400. It's also going to depend a lot of the resolution she's going to run the games at and the video card you are getting. If it was up to me and I was building a budget system and I wasn't going to overclock and I had to get something right now I'd spend a little extra and go with the E7200 over the E2200.

Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Aez on September 22, 2008, 03:38:26 PM. OK, quick question: Where do you start? I have a recurring and really annoying bug that survived a window reinstall, I'm guessing it's an hardware problem but I can't determine which part is broken. I don't think it's my videocard, it's the first I returned but the bug stayed with a new card.

I'm thinking about switching my motherboard. I can try to describe the problem for your amusement, it's a weird non repeatable bug but after 1 year of tolerating it I think I found a pattern.

My machine: Motherboard: M2N-SLI deluxe CPU: AMD Atlhon 64 x2 dual core processor 4200+ RAM: 2,21 GHz, 2 GB videocard: nvidia geforce 7900 GT/GTO The bug/problem: Videoflash image freeze when I watch a movie, it unfreeze if I right click anywhere on the screen, the whole screen goes black for 1sec and the video continue like nothing happenned. I think I freeze too much when I play videogame. I get tons of crash to desktop in spore, complete crash in bioshock, complete crash in Team fortress.

The weirdest part is when I reboot my computer after a complete crash, I get an infinite loading screen for window, starting in safe mode doesn't work. Sometime I get a: can't find disk error press ctrl + alt + del. If I wait 5 min before I restart, everything is fine again. I think I have decent cooling, my case is top notch. An other weird part is that a game only run normally the first time, if I close it I have to restart window before I play it again or I get glitches and a flickering screen in game. I tried to get some solutions from random google question but nothing work.

I haven't even found a single thing talking about the videoflash problem. Eminem Platinum Collection Download more. What would you do? Is it worth the bother of changing my motherboard has a blind shot in the dark? Any suggestion?

This kind of problem will probably cost more to fix by a professional than a new computer. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: rattran on September 22, 2008, 05:32:04 PM. I've seen/heard many horror stories about the m2n-sli deluxe. Seems Asus never really got all the bugs out of the design. And the onboard sound appears to have a number of issues. Check (a fingertip will work) heat on the heatsink on the mcp, and mosfets after it crashes. With the computer shut off but before it has time to cool.

The cpu isn't the only thing that can cause heat problems. Also check to see what voltage your memory requires, and how much you're providing to it. And run memtest86. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Viin on September 22, 2008, 05:37:05 PM.

Hard to track down stuff like that. First thing I'd do is disable the onboard sound via the device manager. See if that helps any.

Also make sure you have updated drivers, etc. Voltage to memory is also important, especially if you have cheap memory. Might be worth it to buy a new mobo and pay attention to the return policy.

You could try a new one see if it helps after running some stuff hard (TF2, etc) and return it if it doesn't. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Yegolev on September 22, 2008, 07:12:56 PM. I flashed my bios today, it said it couldn't complete the flash but all the hardware autodetected after a reboot and the updater is now telling me I have the new version. I'm not seeing any noticeable change. With the setting I posted above, anyone could recommend a stable motherboard? Throw in the price tag if you can, I'll google it otherwise.

I haven't done any hardware stuff beside changing a videocard and adding some ram. I'm guessing I should go to a computer store and pay for an install? It's too bad Vista is such a POS. I was waiting on it to double the ram and fix my problem. That would have been easy, cheap and in my skill range. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Viin on September 22, 2008, 07:35:57 PM.

Download ISO. Burn ISO to blank CD. Buncha lines start flowing as it runs some test.

Essential Visuals Plugin For Virtual Dj Crack For Mac. If the bottom 2/3rds of the screen fill up with screaming red columns of numbers, your memory is kaput. Most bad memory sticks only take a minute to discover, if not seconds. Rarely, memory problems are more subtle and take hours for memtest86 to discover. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Yegolev on September 23, 2008, 10:05:23 AM.

I've been lucky enough to recieve a small bit of money recently so I can now most likely get a new PC like I had been planning to for a while. The last time I looked about and got some advice here was a few of months ago from memory. I'll be looking to get the PC before the end of October (end of Uni and Fallout 3) and was wondering if much has changed recently and if waiting a few more weeks would have any influence on price and the like. My plans back in early July looked like this: Prices don't seem to have changed much since then here in Australia. I can probably spend a little bit more if it represents significantly better value for money. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Trippy on September 25, 2008, 06:54:36 AM. Download ISO.

Burn ISO to blank CD. Buncha lines start flowing as it runs some test. If the bottom 2/3rds of the screen fill up with screaming red columns of numbers, your memory is kaput.

Most bad memory sticks only take a minute to discover, if not seconds. Rarely, memory problems are more subtle and take hours for memtest86 to discover. Ok, so I ran the test, my memory is perfect.

I did both stick at once. I figured out I could do one at a time if I had any error. I hope it's a valid reasoning. I'm reinstalling again, I'll try it with out any window update. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: lamaros on September 25, 2008, 06:34:19 PM. Download ISO.

Burn ISO to blank CD. Buncha lines start flowing as it runs some test. If the bottom 2/3rds of the screen fill up with screaming red columns of numbers, your memory is kaput. Most bad memory sticks only take a minute to discover, if not seconds. Rarely, memory problems are more subtle and take hours for memtest86 to discover.

Ok, so I ran the test, my memory is perfect. I did both stick at once.

I figured out I could do one at a time if I had any error. I hope it's a valid reasoning. I'm reinstalling again, I'll try it with out any window update. [emphasis mine] It's not.

At the very least, remove your sticks and reverse the order to retest. And passing Memtest86 doesn't mean your memory is good, it just means it passed memtest86. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Engels on September 26, 2008, 11:42:27 PM. Using Memtest ------------- - How long does memtest run? How do I stop it?

Memtest runs indefinately unless you stop it. It does however repeat the same tests over and over again. Memtest86+ contains a number of different tests which each take different approaches in trying to expose any errors in your memory. In the top right of your screen you can see the progress of each test in the lower of the two progress bars. The topmost progress bar shows the progress of a pass, each pass consists of all the tests in the memtest suite.

Thus all tests are executed in one pass, so does that mean that no errors will show after the first pass if that pass didn't reveal any errors? Well no, there are several reasons why errors might only show up after a number of passes. Firstly as of this writing, the latest version of memtest also includes a test which uses random test patterns, each pass these patterns will of course be different.

Secondly some types of errors simply don't show up until the system has been running for a while or are very critical on a certain timing condition, are thermal in nature, or other such conditions. To conclude, one successful pass of memtest will give you a pretty good idea that your memory is ok, only in rare cases will there be errors showing after the first pass. To be sure though simply have the test run overnight or even for a couple of days depending on the level of importance of the system.

- Which memory is tested? As much as possible of the system memory is tested. Unfortunately memtest86+ can usually not test all of the memory. The reason for this is that todays processors and BIOSes have become so complex that they require a small amount of memory to keep accounting data of the processor and BIOS state respectively. If memtest were to write over these areas the state of the processor or BIOS becomes invalid and it's behaviour unpredictable. Alas it is also impossible to relocate these areas in the memory. This means that a small area of your memory can not be tested by memtest.

If this part of the memory is defective you will know soon enough though as the processor, parts of the processor or the BIOS simply won't work correctly if this part of your memory is defective. Do realise though that in very rare cases memtest will show no errors even though the module is defective, not because memtest can't detect the error, but because memtest can't test the area the error is located in. Basically the longer you run memtest with the widest variety of tests and get no errors you asymptotically approach 100% certainity that your memory modules have no defects but you can never be 100% certain of that fact just from running memtest itself since memtest itself does not exactly simulate your machine under (ab)normal working conditions. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Engels on September 27, 2008, 12:42:24 AM. Ya, I hear you, but really, what are the odds of the exact part of memory that's broken is precisely the part that holds the bios/cpu data? It also is probably a very very small amount of memory space to boot.

I mean, I guess everything is possible. I've seen file structures on a hard disk trashed and made to look like failing clusters when all that was going on was a failing block of video ram on a card that was mangling the living ell out of the data sent back to the GPU, which was in turn writing borked data to the disk.

I've seen an entire network multicast in Ghostcast server server crawl to 50 MB/min simply because some idiot (me) used a Sun network cable instead of a generic Cat5 cable on an entirely unrelated computer that happened to be plugged into one of the 8 switches in the network. Computers r hard mang Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Trippy on September 27, 2008, 12:56:55 AM. While I don't doubt for a moment that there are occasionally memory defects that only show when the sticks get to x temperature and the specific bad chip get hit with a specific pattern coming from a very specific type of data stream requireing a timing response that memtest86 can't duplicate, I would have to guess that they have to be rare. At this stage, in relation to Aez problem, I would go back to Rattan's original suspicions about the motherboard. I'd check BIOS updates, and turn off on-board sound altogether. I would also perhaps check to see if there are any GPU ROM updates.

Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Aez on September 29, 2008, 08:13:19 PM. So I was looking at the rewards points on my credit card, and realized I had enough points to get an HD TV and a PS3, and still have points over. So the TV's I'm looking at are small (30'). Conventional wisdom seems to be that getting 780p is fine for that size - that you can't tell the difference between that and 1080. But I'm really more interested in whether there is a downside to having that TV resolution for hookup to a 360 or PS3. I'm sure there are people here who have very strong opinions on this matter.:why_so_serious: Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: schild on October 03, 2008, 07:58:44 AM.

I've been having a problem with my USB ports lately. My motherboard is an old ASUS P4P800s with USB 2.0 ports. In the device manager it shows 4 USB 1 ports and a fifth USB 2.0 port - and this is apparently normal. All of the ports are supposed to be fast even though some show as the older type. Unfortunately, about 1/2 the time when I stick a memory stick reader in I get a message saying the USB port is slow and I should use a different port.

Sometimes if I uninstall and detect the ports again it fixes itself, sometimes it takes a reboot. Sometimes both. Has anyone had this problem and found a real fix for it so I don't have to dick around anymore? Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Engels on October 04, 2008, 03:15:36 PM. I've been having a problem with my USB ports lately. My motherboard is an old ASUS P4P800s with USB 2.0 ports. In the device manager it shows 4 USB 1 ports and a fifth USB 2.0 port - and this is apparently normal.

All of the ports are supposed to be fast even though some show as the older type. Unfortunately, about 1/2 the time when I stick a memory stick reader in I get a message saying the USB port is slow and I should use a different port. Sometimes if I uninstall and detect the ports again it fixes itself, sometimes it takes a reboot. Sometimes both. Has anyone had this problem and found a real fix for it so I don't have to dick around anymore? You could try sticking a powered USB 2.0 hub on the USB 2.0 port if you don't mind using up the extra electricity.

I'm not sure a non-powered one would be enough to keep the 5th slot always in 2.0 mode but you could try that first if you can get one from a place that has a good return policy. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Baldrake on October 05, 2008, 05:26:40 PM. I'm saying given the current prices of TV and the fact this is costing you FAKE MAGIC MONEY, get a 1080p tv if they offer it.

There is a difference, it's noticeable and the only people that say there isn't have only seen shitty 1080p tvs. What TVs are they offering? The one I was looking at is a Samsung LN32A450 (They do offer 1080p's, but they're much bigger TV's (and won't fit in the space we have), and are also double the cost. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: schild on October 05, 2008, 09:06:35 PM. The one I was looking at is a Samsung LN32A450 (They do offer 1080p's, but they're much bigger TV's (and won't fit in the space we have), and are also double the cost.

I have a slightly older version of that TV, it's a great set. Not too big but not at all small.

Crisp pictures, looks awesome with DirecTV HD. Get a Harmony remote to go with it.:) Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Mrbloodworth on October 09, 2008, 03:21:46 PM.

YEah, thanks for the advice, but i have already done that part lol, right now i am trying to get the overall price down. As far as video card, i had already chosen This one. (( I currently use this on my new machine i bought about 2 months ago) I may just list the whole machine as a public wish list, and let you guys go over it to make sure i'm not buying stupid things.

But, what i was thinking is, buy the dual core, and upgrade it later ( the slot allows for it) EDIT: I need to figure out how to make it public, lol. It finally posted as public. Thoughts, comments, recommendations ETC. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Trippy on October 09, 2008, 06:56:26 PM.

Destroy my hopes that Mr. Bloodworth was secretly female, bringing our total count of women on this board to, uhm, what, 4? Seven regulars and semi-regulars, if I'm not forgetting anyone, plus another half-dozen or so less frequent posters. We can double that once some daughters get old enough to post here.

(Could be many more, but I'm assuming any sensible parent will be blocking the f13 domain until they're like, thirty.) Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Engels on October 14, 2008, 10:23:56 AM. It finally posted as public. Thoughts, comments, recommendations ETC. Get a DVD burner. Make sure you get a fan for hard drive cage -- that rotated cage really sucks for air flow. For power supply I would recommend something more along the lines of this: Fan for hard drive cage?

How about this one? Seems to just take a HD bay.

Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Miasma on October 14, 2008, 12:33:41 PM. Been having some issues with one of my harddrive partitions recently.

It is slow transferring files internally on the drive, and PC performance often begins to chug during intensive file activity on the drive. For example, it took me almost 3 hours to run the installer for the current WoW patch, and the installer failed after that, where as after i copied the WoW directory to a partition on a different drive everything went smoothly, and install was done in less then 20 minutes. Also, after checking the system log, I noticed that i am getting a large amount of the following entry, flagged as a 'Warning': 'An error was detected on device Device Harddisk0 D during a paging operation.' Wondering if anyone with experience in HD diagnostics might be able to tell me if this is an indication of imminent harddisk failure, or if it might be related to drivers, or possibly just that specific partition. It only seems to occur on that partition. If you need any other info, let me know what to look for and i will dig it up.

Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Trippy on October 16, 2008, 02:03:42 AM. I've got a new one. AVG (free, 8.0) won't update on this PC any more. It connects fine, pops up box with update details, I click 'update' and it starts, then receives 0 bytes from the update server. If I go to the AVG webpage and try to manually download the updates the same thing happens - firefox just won't get a single byte from their servers.

All 5 of the other PC's and laptops in this house update fine. What I've been doing is manually downloading the updates on PC no.2 and putting them on the NAS and then updating this PC from there, but that's a pain in the arse with daily updates.

I've tried disabling my firewall (Sunbelt personal one) and I've looked in my hosts file but that's as far as my technical knowledge gets. I've searched t'web but not come up with anything. Anyone got any ideas? Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Trippy on October 16, 2008, 04:18:22 AM.

C: Documents and Settings granny>nslookup downloadfree.avg.com Server: SpeedTouch.lan Address: 10.0.0.138 Non-authoritative answer: Name: a913.g.akamai.net Addresses: 77.67.20.155, 77.67.20.163 Aliases: downloadfree.avg.com, downloadfree.avg.com.edgesuite.net C: Documents and Settings granny>tracert downloadfree.avg.com Tracing route to a913.g.akamai.net [77.67.20.155] over a maximum of 30 hops: 1. C: Documents and Settings user>nslookup downloadfree.avg.com Server: dnscache0.eng.net Address: 213.130.128.32 Non-authoritative answer: Name: a913.g.akamai.net Addresses: 84.53.177.11, 84.53.177.32 Aliases: downloadfree.avg.com, downloadfree.avg.com.edgesuite.net C: Documents and Settings user>tracert downloadfree.avg.com Tracing route to a913.g.akamai.net [84.53.177.32] over a maximum of 30 hops: 1. On the PC you can change DNS settings in the TCP/IP properties for your ethernet connection. You will have a similar section on your router, if you are using one.

I'm not at home right now, but I believe my setup is for my router to use the OpenDNS IPs and my PC does also, but I might have my router doing DNS for my PC. Can't recall.

In your case, though, I'd check Network Connections ->right-click your ethernet ->Properties, choose TCP/IP, click Properties, etc. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Tige on October 16, 2008, 08:01:34 AM. On the PC you can change DNS settings in the TCP/IP properties for your ethernet connection. You will have a similar section on your router, if you are using one. I'm not at home right now, but I believe my setup is for my router to use the OpenDNS IPs and my PC does also, but I might have my router doing DNS for my PC. Can't recall.

In your case, though, I'd check Network Connections ->right-click your ethernet ->Properties, choose TCP/IP, click Properties, etc. Cool, thanks, will go and try that next time I can get upstairs.

Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: apocrypha on October 17, 2008, 01:29:55 AM. Need to see your code. Best guess at this point is you are adding an ' n' in a print somewhere but not chomp'ing before hand or your input file has screwy line endings. Contrary to popular belief the '$' metacharacter in Perl regular expressions does not signify 'end of line' -- it means 'end of string'. Depending on how you've slurped up the file you are trying to edit this may or may not be what you want.

If you really want $ to mean end-of-line you can use the 'm' flag. Something like this should work if you are dealing with standard Unix text files.

I'm worried about malware for the home. We run XP boxes with AVG and MSFT security panel on (fw and antivirus). I also occassionally put up ZoneAlarm. Any recommendations for good malware detectors? The safest thing to do is to turn your normal user account into a non-admin account. That way the malware can't (usually) install anything even if you somehow inadverently click on something you shouldn't have in your browser. I don't know anything about the 'real time' protection some of these products provide.

I just had to deal with my dad's computer getting a massive malware infection. The online scanner from MS at is remarkably good.

It's far far better than that Windows Defender piece of crap, though it does run quite slowly. It even runs properly when booted into Safe Mode with networking turned on. Unfortunately no single program can detect everything out there so you end up having to run a bunch of different programs and pray that they've found everything important.

I also used Sophos, the online scanner from Panda, AVG, and some other ones. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Selby on October 21, 2008, 10:28:39 PM. I lost a hard drive this morning. Came in and the computer wouldn't boot because the hard drive is making a funny clicking noise. Turns out it won't boot as long as it is plugged in. Not *overly* a problem, it was just the music drive with 10 years of MP3s (5% I don't have CDs for anymore due to attrition).

I had all of the music on several iPods, so it's not like the data is gone, just going to be a major pain the ass to rename 10,000 files from AFDD.mp3 and whatnot (ID3 info all intact). I did notice that this is a Western Digital drive, of which I have had multiple people ask me about recovery on over the past few years. Is there anything to be done about said drive once it is borked without shelling out to those expensive data recovery centers? I don't think so, but it's been about 5 years since I was in the IT field and pickings were slim then on options. Is there something about WD that means they have higher failures?

All of the drives have been of varying size and the failure is the same - spins, kind of, then clicking every other second or so. WD's site is pretty much no help here. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Trippy on October 21, 2008, 10:36:10 PM. Is there something about WD that means they have higher failures? I figured not, but listening to people bitch about one brand or another (especially some of the lesser known names) made me wonder the question. Now the next question is does anyone know of a file renaming program ID3 library for MP3s or do I get to rename all the files by hand? All of the ID3 tag info is there, so if I can read that I can rename the file to whatever I want and restore a directory structure that is useful to me.

Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Trippy on October 22, 2008, 07:51:45 AM. Thanks Trippy, it was Windows Defender I was looking. There is always the standbys of Ad Aware and Spybot. If I think a machine has something, I like to run several as each one seems to catch something the others don't.

Spybot also has TeaTimer for constant protection, but it's annoying as hell as every change in the registry pops up a dialog box. Due to Microsoft's genius, there are a lot of legitimate changes happening there. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Ratman_tf on October 24, 2008, 07:58:21 AM. (The symptoms: After upgrading my hard drive to a SATA, my IDE DVD Rom tends to give up the ghost.

I used to think it was a hardware problem, either with the drive or the cable, but this is now happening to my external RW CD Rom when I try to plug it in. The hard drive indicator light and the drive light will come on and stay on.

This is a very helpful:uhrr: indicator as to when it's on the fritz. Whenever I tinker with it, messing with drivers or system settings or the master/slave switch on the drive itself, it will go back to normal and play nice for a few hours or a few days. And then the problem comes back.

I'm very sadf, especially since most games have to be in the drive to play. *Insert snarky DRM complaint here* I'm running good ole Windows XP SP3 on a M2A-VM motherboard system. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Trippy on October 24, 2008, 08:36:24 AM. Well one would assume your external CD-ROM drive is USB, so both your IDE and USB drives go on the fritz which you can identify by the HDD indicator light (the little led on your case I assume) being constantly on. Have you tried to plug in your external while your internal was unplugged?

If you have then we know that it isn't anything to do with the internal drive. Is your old IDE hard drive still hooked up? If so you might be taxing your power supply which could cause all sorts of odd problems, though chances are small an extra drive pushed it over the edge. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Ratman_tf on October 24, 2008, 02:08:53 PM. Updated BIOS today.

Identify where the IRQ settings are. The CMOS set up screen shows PCI plug & play IRQ's, but the drives are startup stuff. Maybe I'm reading it wrong?

Have tried plug 4 and plug 1 for the SATA HD. Just now tried uninstalling the IDE controllers and letting them reinstall on bootup. Looked good until I put a CD in the drive. At which point the drive failed. Old HD is no longer in the computer. (Did a mirror of the old drive's contents when I installed it, and then removed the old drive.) Will try unplugging the internal and using the external only later.

My last fix took two whole days to fail though. So it can take some time to troubleshoot.:sad_panda: P.S. The drive lights symptom usually only happens after Windows loads up. I mean, when it's happening it never takes effect until Windows has loaded.

When the problem is happening, I can't even open the drive to insert/remove a disk. But I can open the disk tray before Windows loads.

Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Yegolev on October 24, 2008, 02:39:49 PM. Or a dvd copying program such as CloneDVD or some such? Sometimes those programs will do a CD/DVD device mount (virtual mount) that can lock up your drive.

Also, when the drive fails, do you get any exclamation marks or Xs in the Device Manager? Or does it just suddenly poof? It disappears from the drive manager altogether.

I don't think I have any DRM like Starforce. And I don't have any DvD copying stuff. I did do another pass with uninstalling the IDE controller.

Took both the ATI IDE controller and the dual channel controller out, and then rebooted. It's being good again (played some Guitar Hero 3) will give it a while and see if the problem returns. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Yegolev on October 24, 2008, 03:49:59 PM. Updated BIOS today. Identify where the IRQ settings are.

The CMOS set up screen shows PCI plug & play IRQ's, but the drives are startup stuff. Maybe I'm reading it wrong?

First check the device manager for the drive controllers and look at their resources. Easy way is to select View ->Resources by Type ->IRQ. Your ATA controllers should all be on separate IRQs and they also shouldn't overlap with your USB controllers. If there is a conflict there you'll have to fiddle with your BIOS to turn off auto-assignment of IRQs and manually reassign them. Title: Re: Quick [tech] Questions Thread Post by: Ratman_tf on October 25, 2008, 06:01:49 AM.