Minder X20cls Manually

Salt Chlorine Generators do require some maintenance and repair. The salt cell will eventually lose performance and the controller circuit boards can develop problems over time. New technology in salt systems may also sway your decision to repair or replace your salt chlorinator. Newer models self-clean and self-diagnose and other advanced features. Chances are, at some point you will face an expensive repair to your salt system, I’m talking about either a new salt cell, or a new control board. Both of these repairs can approach half the cost of a new system. How do you know if you have a salt chlorinator problem?

Usual symptoms are low chlorine output, as determined by your water tests, indicator lights or error codes flashing on the control box, or no lights at all. Troubleshooting a Salt Chlorinator First, check power. If your salt cell is plugged into an GFI outlet, make sure that the test button is not popped, or tripped. If your salt system is hardwired, variations in voltage could cause the controller to go a little haywire.

There are two digital chlorinator models available: CL: Two-In-One Chlorinator + Doser. Features two digital time clocks for pool filter operation. Variable self cleaning salt cell. Win Lose Or Draw. X20 Minder / Hydro Master Self CleaningSalt Cells for - Compare prices of 13046 products in Swimming Pool and Spa Supplies from 152 Online Stores in Australia.

Free Download Lagu Fatin Shidqia Lubis Pudar. Secondly, maintain the proper salt level in the pool. Using is recommended, even if your unit displays a digital salt level – it could be wrong. Check the water flow. Dirty pump baskets, clogged impellers or filters can reduce water flow to such a low point, that very little chlorine is produced.

Check the pump timer too, for the same reason. Check your water balance. Especially your pH, and your Cyanuric Acid levels. High pH and low CYA can make it hard for chlorine to be effective. Keep a pH level of 7.2-7.6, and your level of CYA (or ), at 30-50 ppm, to reduce the workload on your salt cell. Using the salt cell too much increases scale, and may cause premature cell failure.

Got a clean salt cell? As it creates the electrolysis needed to convert the salty water to chlorine, the metallic plates of a salt cell develop a scale build-up that reduces chlorine production.

Can reverse polarity to slough off accumulated scale. Other units may have an indicator light to let you know when the cell needs to be manually cleaned. Older salt systems have neither, and require periodic inspection and cleaning.

Good flow, proper water balance and salt level, and a clean salt cell can restore chlorine production, or in some cases, correct unrelated error codes. So try these things first, and you may not need a, or new controller hardware. Buy New or Repair Old? Back to the original question.

Well, if my troubleshooting tips didn’t help you, the next step might be to assess the likely parts needed to repair the salt system, so you can determine the probable repair costs, to weigh against the cost of a new salt chlorine generator. If the salt system is still within the warranty period, by all means, get on the phone with the manufacturer’s support reps, for some advanced troubleshooting, or warranty service. Most salt cells last 3-5 years, depending on the salt system, and situational factors.

The control boards used can last 3x as long, even in the outdoor environment, or they could fall victim to insect, power or moisture issues. If you’ve invested too much money into your current salt system, and are finding it unreliable, perhaps switching brands would be appropriate. Or, if your system is over 10 years old, you may enjoy the features and benefits available on our for pools. Davy Merino InTheSwim Blog Editor.

Hi Shaun – there is a battery backup in the, but not one mentioned in the but for the Ei, it says it lasts for 500 hours (see below). I’m not sure where they battery is located, but seems to not be sold separately, may be a part of the Control Assy, or the Power Assy BACKUP BATTERY The Clearwater Ei unit is fitted with a long life rechargeable battery.

This battery should last in excess of 500 hours without the mains being connected. The battery will retain ALL settings in the event of a power failure. Hi we recently bought a house with a chlorine pool. Since we have had a salt pool for about 7 years we decided to switch this pool to a salt one.

We installed have the salt chlorinator Circupool SJ 40 model. We installed it this April (2017). Since then we have put in the appro amount of salt, constantly checked the PH, chlorine levels, calcium hardness, alkilinity, and cyniric acid with out testing kits. We make sure the everything is balanced and yet we still cannot get our water clear. We replaced the sand in our filter-not knowing the last time it was replaced since we just bought this pool. However it is still cloudy and we occasionally starts to turn slightly green.

We constantly add algaeside and make sure the water is balanced but no luck. We are not new to this and have never had our other pool do this. We switched it as well to a salt pool and never had to “baby” it or struggle to get the water clear. We have also treated the water for metals as there has been some slight staining.

Still no luck with clarity. It is frustrating to put this amount of time and effort to not have a clear pool.

We also take the water to Leslie’s pool store for testing and they are stumped as well. Hi Wendi, if your chlorine level is constant and consistent, and the same with pH – the problem should lie in the filtration and circulation (since sanitation seems covered).

For circulation, are you running the pump long enough each day? If your filter is on the small side, it could need 18 hrs daily, especially during the heat of July. So that’s one possibility. Second is that the new filter sand was not actually filter sand (unless it was labeled Pool Filter Sand), or possibly not enough sand was added (or too much sand)? Third most likely scenario is that the multiport valve (or push pull valve) on the sand filter is allowing water to bypass the filter, because of a bad spider gasket (MPV) or plunger o-rings (Push-Pull). Finally, could be contamination of phosphates/nitrates, consuming the chlorine as fast as it is added you can test for phosphates, and treat with a remover, if you haven’t already.

Hi Lori, no lights on at all could be a power supply or transformer failure, or a circuit board failure. Or a power cable failure, or it could just be a fuse, or a relay The problem lies where the power dies if you have a multimeter (and aren’t afraid to use it), you can troubleshoot where the incoming power is stopping. It may have just died, which could be expensive, 5 years is about the right time for that, but hopefully something easy. Check that the GFI test button is not popped on a wired outlet, if you have one, and that the power is reaching the control unit. Hi Davy, I have a Stroud Model 330 Chlorinator with Stroud cell – it’s been in operation since 2005. This is the problem: The operation light is green, but none of the production LEDs are lighting up, apart from very occasionally the bottom one will flash on and then off again.

I’ve checked the cable connections, which seen fine and the cable doesn’t seem damaged. There’s no obvious signs of damage to the plates in the cell and they’re not heavily coated in calcium. The water is only 16C at the moment (it’s the start of the season here) but that’s not been a problem in the past. I added the salt yesterday and then noted this problem with the chlorinator.

It’s been running (on high) for about 24 hours and I have zero chlorine in the pool – I was hoping it was just faulty LEDs, but alas no. In your opinion is this a problem with the cell or the control box? Any advice welcome. Hi, many salt systems do not operate at around 60 degrees F, or 16 C, so that could be the problem, but if not, i would bet on the cell first, if it is 12 years old as you indicate. The coatings tend to wear off the metal plates over time, which can lead to corrosion and failure of the plates. You can try cleaning the cell first with a mild acid bath, and clean the wire terminals well, and make sure the water flow is good, or normal. If you can visually see the cell, most cells will produce fizzy bubbles when operating, if they are working that is.

You can also check power at the salt cell terminals, possibly the transformer is weak. And of course it could be the circuit board. Inspect for any obvious signs of damage, anything melted or warped or burnt looking (look closely). Hope that helps! Hi John; it could be that the salt level is too high. It normally runs around 3000 ppm, but all salt systems have their own specific recommended salt level (I see that Poolrite suggests 5000-7000 ppm, so that’s not it).

Other causes of low chlorine production can be low water flow, and cold water temperatures, below 60 degrees F. And also a dirty salt cell, but yours is clean. I suppose it could also be the PCB, but you may want to chat with the manufacturer first.

Here’s the owner’s manual, or contact them here. Hi Tom, the first thing that comes to mind is – are you sure it’s not producing chlorine? Is your cyanuric acid (stabilizer) level at least 25 ppm? Is the ph level between 7.2-7.6? Is it turned up high enough? Is there evidence of algae or cloudy water?

Is the pump running long enough each day to produce enough chlorine? Are your test strips or test kit reagents fresh and accurate? Now if that is all true, is the water temperature above 60 degrees, and is the salt level at recommended levels? Can you trust the salt level reading? (some folks use salt test strips to verify). Is the flow rate proper, and pool filter is clean?

Sorry for so many questions – just not a simple answer, I suppose. Hi, a process of elimination would be good. Use salt test strips to test the salt level, to make sure it’s optimum (not too much or too little). Then be sure your flow rate is as high as possible, with clean filter, clean pump basket and skimmers, high speed (if you have more than one speed pump), and all valves open.

If you still get flow errors, but you are sure that your flow rate is good, as good as it’s always been, then you can inspect the flow sensor, bypassing the switch to see if errors go away. If flow and salt are both good, and the display is still erratic, inspect the circuit board for obvious problems, and inspect all cables for damage. Hi jason, Do you have display on the controller screen? There is a Power Supply error message ‘Output Fault’ that should display if that is the cause. If no display at all, check the power cord, and outlet, be sure the Test button isn’t popped, if it’s GFCI. If you do have power to the unit, but no action visible in the salt cell, check that your flow is proper (clean filter and baskets, check valves), although that should generate a ‘No Flow’ error message.

Check that the cable leading to the salt cell is intact and not damaged. Finally, check that the salt cell is clean and does not have scale buildup. Here’s a technical guide on the Ei salt system from Zodiac.

CELL HOUSING How Does The Chlorinator Sanitize The Pool-When salt water passes through the salt cell, a very small and safe electrical charge passes through the water producing chlorine on the surface of the cell plates, (which are called the anode/cathode) from the dissolved salt. This chlorine then sanitizes the pool water.Saltwater Pool Chlorinator With inbuilt Pool Light Transformer & Pool Solar Controller Automatic Pool Pump & Light function: You can set the ON-OFF time of pool pump & light which you want. Automatic Solar Controller function: You can change the set temperature of your pool.(You should buy Solar Controller aside) Self-cleaning function: When a salt chlorinator is producing chlorine calcium builds up on the cell plates. This build up of calcium then reduces the production efficiency of the cell. Your Chlorinator's electronic circuitry automatically changes the electrical polarity based on the chosen cycle using the self-cleaning hours function.

Your chlorinator has its own inbuilt self-diagnostic feature to assist with any operational problems encountered. If the unit detects a problem it will periodically flash a message on the display.

The Power Pack supplies 12V,100W for the pool light(s) via the white terminals located at the base. One support 230-240V output for pool pump and another support 230-240V output for Solar Controller.

Displaying the Pool Temperature: The unit will display the pool temperature whenever in normal operation.