Repairing Broken Rafters
With one end of the steel 'L' channel securely fastened to the rafter or truss member, you can draw the broken piece into position. Choose a lag bolt 3/8 inch diameter X 1 1/2 inch to 2 inch longer than the gap between the steel 'L' channel and the bottom of the truss member or rafter as shown in Figure 6.
How to Repair a House Rafter. Preventing a very costly roofing repair. Position the angle iron against the bottom edge of the broken rafter. Nov 07, 2014 Giant fender washers and skinny 1/4-20 bolts used to preload the joint so the preload will creep less. The big washers distribute the load to the wood well.
As an example. If the gap is 1 inch choose a lag bolt that is 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches long and if the gap was 2 inches choose a lag bolt that is 3 1/2 inches to 4 inches long. Basically, you want the lag bolt to enter the damaged rafter or truss member by at least an inch before it begins to draw the steel 'L' channel to the lumber.
Figure 6 - Steel 'L' channel mounted to rafter or truss Start both of the bottom lag bolts, tighten until the washers under the bolt heads are flush with the steel 'L' channel. Commence to tighten the bolt farthest from the crack or separation until the other bolt head as about 1/4 inch from the steel, at that point tighten the back bolt so that it is snug against the steel. Start tightening the front lag bolt again and do so until you have obtained the 1/4 inch separation on the back bolt, tighten the back bolt and continue going front to back until the truss member of rafter is snug against the angle steel.
Drill two holes in line with the holes in the side of the steel angle and insert carriage bolts so that the nuts and washers are against the steel angle. Once the truss member or rafter has been reconnected it is wise to add some additional support to that area as shown in Figure 7. Figure 7 - Additional supports for broken rafter or truss member Figure 8 - roof truss gusset plate Damaged Or Broken Gusset Plate: A gusset plate is used to hold the members of the truss together where they meet, as shown in Figure 8. In residential construction gusset plates are generally inserted into both sides of the truss, simultaneously, using very high pressure, the metal tabs that penetrate the wood are not pointed in the same manner as nails and banging on the face of the gusset plate will not normally seat the tabs into the wood securely, see Figure 9. Hence it is almost impossible to reinstall a metal gusset plate properly in the field or on site. Figure 9 - Roof truss gusset plate If you have a gusset plate that has partially or fully pulled away from its lumber members as shown in Figure 3, the best method of repair is to remove the metal gusset and install a 1/2 inch thick, plywood gusset, on both sides in its place, as shown in Figure 10.
Figure 10 - Plywood roof truss gusset plate Figure 11 - Pneumatic nailer The use of a, as shown in Figure 11, is recommended when nailing to any joist or rafter, once drywall or other sheathing has been applied, as the impact from a pneumatic nailer is dramatically less than created by the use of a hammer. Using a hammer may cause damage to sheathing materials as the rafters or joists may try to move. If you do not own or do not wish to purchase a pneumatic nailers, they can be rented at most rental facilities. Damaged Roof Decking: Damaged roof decking can only be properly repaired from the top side of the roof, which entails the removal of the roof sheathing and the damaged decking in the area where the damage exists.
However, if necessary a temporary fix, which will hold until a proper repair can be accomplished is possible. Cut a piece of 1/2 inch plywood that will cover the damaged area that exists, between two rafters or roof trusses, see Figure 12. Figure 12 - Damged roof decking The challenge that usually presents itself is placing the piece of plywood over the damaged section because the decking is generally perforated with the shanks of nails that are holding the roof sheathing in place. Install Windows 7 On Lenovo T60. You cannot drive the nails up, without damaging the sheathing material, which would probably make the situation worse than it already is. The best way, and this is a temporary fix only, is to glue a piece of 1 inch rigid Styrofoam (available as insulation material at most big box home improvement retailers) to the plywood. The Styrofoam provides a surface that will allow for the penetration of the nail shafts and still provide strength to the patch.
Place the piece of plywood foam side up against the damaged roof decking and push upward until the foam is actually touching the underside of the roof decking. Use 1 X 2 lumber strapping to hold the plywood tight to the roof decking as shown in Figure 13. Do not nail the plywood upwards towards the roof decking, doing so may create a penetration through the decking and the roof sheathing. Figure 13 - Temporary roof decking repair Although this repair will help to prevent additional damage from occurring, the damaged roof decking should be replaced as soon as possible.
I have a new construction pre-closing inspection scheduled for Monday.My client told me the builder made an opening in the roof after she told them she did not want the skylight in the kitchen. She said the next time she drove by the home, the opening was closed. My question is.
What is the acceptable method of rafter repair and what is the publication that defines it?This is 'stick' construction not manufactured truss. Oh by the way, this is another client that found me from the NACHI site. Linus, The old skylight hole must be covered with decking material. It must be the same kind of decking that is on the rest of the roof. My guess is that it's probably 1/2' CDX plywood (CDX= Rated for exterior use). All professional roofing organizations recommend that the plywood be replaced in whole sheets only.
What I mean is. Don't just cut a piece to fit, you need to replace the entire sheet.
It has to do with maintaining the structural integrity of the roof. Then the roofing material can be re-installed over this area. As to the trusses being upgraded for this skylight area, I would recommend that your client obtain a structural engineer's signed paperwork stating that the area in question was repaired or upgraded to his/her specs.
Trusses can not be retrofitted without a PE authorization. It may be easier than you're thinking. No Serial Ports Found Bitminter. Many skylights are made to fit between framing so that framing doesn't need to be cut. If they remove the skylight they may just infill the hole with nailers and sheath it shut with osb. If a larger skylight was installed usually the outside rafters are doubled and the cut rafter is hung on headers spanning the opening between the doubled rafters top and bottom. Then the opening is filled with regular framing to the size needed.
When you get in the attic you may see what I describe with additional framing to close up the hole and sheath it shut with osb. Well, I guess I have answered my own doubt and curiosity about posting references to Links that are led to believe are the proper way of doing things. I too have been shown and brought up to double rafters anytime that an opening is created that will interupt a rafter or truss.
Moral of the story here is that you can not always believe who provides the details for a product that is being sold. Not a problem I see in remodeling jobs due the small opening that is created, but in new construction would reccomend double the rafters. In homes with engineered trusses, you would have to confine the skylight within the parameters of the two spacing. Conventional framing you could interupt the spacing and increase the support load by other means. Good pick up Guys. Got a call today. Sorry but I have to cancel inspection.
Builder pointed out to buyer that second party inspection (non municipality) are not permitted as per contract that buyer had signed.Builder must have had too many home inspectors finding flaws in workmanship and had attorneys incorporate' no second party inspection' clauses incorporated into contracts.However I will be doing inspection prior to expiration of 1 year new construction warranty. Linus This is all we get up here. Very few builders will allow an independent inspector on site until the buyer signs off on the PDI.
Then the buyer gets 30 days to submit a deficiency report. I am doing more and more PDI's after the fact than before.